Shit Route Setters Say

Here is Chris Bloch's "Shit Says" video, "Shit Route Setters Say".

Filmed on location at Bridges Rock Gym

Starring

Wes Miraglio (hey that's me!)

Shoes

Mad Rock

The weekend update with your host

This past weekend was the YCL (Youth Climbing League) competition at Bridges Rock Gym. The YCL was run by this woman Alison before Yo Basecamp proprietors, Andy and Lisa Puhvel, took over. I'm pretty stoked on that move because

1. They make climbing FUN. Always. Why do you think I did 21 camps in 7 years with Yo Basecamp?
2. The YCL isn't about winning. There are no national titles, no champions per say. It's really about getting kids introduced to comp climbing that's not serious or fast paced as USAC/ABS comps

It was also fun just to watch kids compete and have fun on the problems. It almost made me want to compete again. Possibly? We will see what unfolds. 

Explaining the rules to the kids

Kids climbing.

But for now, I'm more excited to climb outdoors and stay psyched on problems that have seeped into my consciousness in areas I have been too. Things in Hueco like…Javelina, Russian Woman, Full Service, Sunshine, Free Willie. Or Pugilist in the Valley. Even Joe's Valley (I was probably not in climbing shape when I went).

Hopefully my trip to Hawaii will bring about more climbing outdoors in the areas there. My friend and Volcanic Gym owner, Justin Ridgely, has been developing like a mad man over there. There is so much potential on Oahu it seems like. His instagram is always gets me excited about climbing over there. So stoked.

In other news, be on the look out for the newest addition to the viral bandwagon of the Shit Says videos that have been circulating the internet, "Shit Route Setters Say". Filmed on location at Bridges Rock Gym in El Cerrito, CA by Chris Bloch starring me. Shoes and chalk bag provided by Mad Rock Climbing.

Mad Rock: It's not just friction, it's science friction.

It's raining!

Because the rain has come (read: FINALLY!), indoors has been the modus operandi for climbing. While I prefer outside more (what climber doesn't??) I'll have to take what I can get. And right now, plastic grips secured by metal to walls of wood with textured paint seem to be a good way to climb. I have somehow I have managed to spilt the skin on my right middle finger. No clue how since I don't use chalk with drying agents added in (i.e. Flashed chalk is tight n'shit).

Photo dump time? Why yea, here are some for your viewing pleasure!

In the game longer than most will ever be. JYEAH!
Joe Kinder

New chalk bag?

Rain…finally

Indoors is better than sitting around

"Hang board is SUCH good training." More shit climbers says

20min hang board workout on the Moon board. Still got it.

"HEY EVERYBODY HERE COMES THE CHOO CHOO!" -Zach Galifianakis

Valley time

The weather has been incredibly dry and cold that to not take advantage of climbing outside would be a shame. In the past two weeks I have been in Yosemite Valley trying to climb problems that have continually kicked my ass. Over, and over, and over again. I am still unable to get off the ground on Bruce Lee. Either my right foot slips off as I'm bringing my left up or some other useless excuse. It doesn't matter because Austin did it after looking like he wouldn't be able to. The amazing feat was he didn't do the hand sequence he planned on. Impressively using the worst hold to go to to jug. Most impressive climbing I have seen so far of 2012. And it's not even February.

$12 gets you a bagel, coffee, and cereal at the cafeteria.

As for myself, I could tell I needed a rest day after setting at Bridges. Oh well, sometimes you just need to suck it up and keep trying. My second day on wasn't really amazing, only doing the Angler (V3) at Curry. I should have been wearing something warmer because I was shaking and cold the rest of the day. My toes were numb and trying Slap Shot in the dark (again by headlamps) became futile when I couldn't stop shaking because of the cold. You live and learn I suppose.



Thursday was slightly better, as I felt ok. My skin didn't hurt and I wanted to check out Pugilist at the Ahwahnee Boulders. It's a really cool line that shut me down near the top. I worked out all the moves and somehow couldn't pull it together for a send that day. I ended up doing the Ahwahnee Arête (V4) and No Fur (V3) and some other V3 there. Nothing hard for me, but new problems. It counts for something. I really need a trip after a rest day to feel productive (in my opinion) I suppose. Hopefully I will be able to get back before my up coming trip to Hawaii or before the weather turns (eventually).

Ahwahnee Arête (V4) Possibly the tallest V4 I have done.

Unfortunately, my camera and batteries crapped out this trip. I got no sends on my camera but all on Austin GoPro. Hopefully, I can make the upgrade to HD soon, as my camera is stuck in 2005 quality wise…

Thanks for reading!

Yosemite Valley

6am start to the Valley

Every trip to Yosemite I seem to be served a plate of humble pie no matter what. I do a send one project, get humbled on the next. Bruce Lee did not want me to get off the ground today. Austin though, can do the moves easily. He and I are two opposites. Austin has a more technical approach to climbing (Full Fever WIRED) and climbs pretty static in comparison to my style which lends its self to more powerful and dynamic movement. But comparing styles is apples to oranges really; who cares? As long as you're trying problems right?

Although Bruce Lee took us out and spanked us like misbehaving children of the 19th century, I had much more success on Flake Out (V7) on the B1 Boulder at Sentinel Rock. Previously, I couldn't get off the ground. I couldn't pull my feet up off the ground. From there you have had to shift your weight to the right to gain and underling that leads to easy-ish terrain. It's especially fun in the dark by a not-as-bright-as-I-wanted headlamp. Thankful I had some light and spotters to top out in darkness.

Flake Out V7, 2nd go by headlamp.

Afterwards this kid, Mike, got me psyched on Slapshot. We had a lot of near sends but neither one was able to stick the crux dead point at the top in the dark. One to come back for…hopefully next week again.

Hopefully next week with Austin again. He needs to…no, he WILL send Bruce Lee. There are questions. Joe Czerwinski once told me, "Excuses are 90% true…100% unacceptable."